Patek Philippe unveils eleven unique new alliances of technical prowess & style

Patek Phillipe makes some of the most coveted and collectible watches across the entire watchmaking landscape. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the anticipation for what the brand will release is always high among enthusiasts.

A Handful Of Changes for Patek Philippe Watches Announced

  • Two major evolutions for the Patek Philippe Seal
    • All watches equipped with a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar or a traditional Breguet balance spring must comply with a tight tolerance range of -1 and +2 seconds per 24 hours
    • Patek Philippe has introduced a new unified standard of water resistance set at 30 meters for all watches certified as water-resistant, and tested for actual use at that depth. This covers hand washing, showering, bathing, swimming, and yes, diving to a depth of 30 meters.
  • For all new Patek Philippe watches sold as of May 1 2024, the duration of the international warranty increases from two years to five years

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G

In February 2024, a big batch of Patek Philippe watches was discontinued, including the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980 family of watches. It turns out that it was more of a pause than a full-out cancellation because the reference made a comeback at Watches & Wonders 2024.

However, unlike previous versions, which were available in rose gold and two-tone steel and rose gold, the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G is a white gold variant with a blue-gray opaline dial. Rather than an integrated bracelet, the latest Nautilus 5980 comes with two straps: a blue-gray calfskin strap embossed with a denim motif and a composite strap with a blue-gray fabric motif. Honestly, I’m not sure slapping a pair of jeans on a white gold Nautilus is the best move here.

The opaline blue-gray dial  very matchy-matchy with the strap  includes the customary horizontal embossing, as well as white gold applied hours markers, the mono-counter at 6 o’clock, and a date at 3 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

Already available in rose gold, Patek Philippe has now unveiled a white gold version of the Aquanaut Travel Time in the form of the reference 5164G. The 40.8mm white gold case is paired with an opaline blue-gray dial and a rubber strap in the same shade. The colorway works beautifully here.

The cleverly designed Caliber 26-330 S C FUS self-winding movement allows the display of a second time zone via a skeletonized hand while the solid local hour hand can jump forward or back with a push of the buttons on the left-hand side of the case.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R

In 2021, Patek Philippe launched a quartz-powered, gem-set Aquanaut Luce Travel Time. For 2024, Patek has reinterpreted a similar concept but without the diamonds: the rose gold Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5269R.

Similar to a lot of Patek’s novelties at Watches & Wonders 2024, the new Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R includes a blue-gray opaline dial and a color-matched blue rubber strap. The rose gold case measures 38.8mm in diameter, topped with the Aquanaut’s hallmark rounded octagonal bezel.

While some might lament the use of a quartz movement rather than a mechanical one to power the dual-time functionality of the watch, it does translate to a lower price point.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5268/461G

Continuing its path of bejeweled high-jewelry Aquanaut watches, Patek Philippe launched the white gold Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5268/461G, all dressed up in dazzling diamonds and sapphires. Case-wise, there are baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel in a light-to-dark blue gradient and baguette-cut diamonds on the lugs. The use of both gemstones continues to the dial, where Patek has recreated the Aquanaut’s checkered pattern using alternating sapphire and diamond baguettes.

That center pattern is framed by a blanket of snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds, which is then topped with baguette sapphires for hour markers. It’s an intense panoply of precious gems, accompanied by a trio of time-telling hands at the center.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G World Time, Date

Following the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G launched exclusively for the Japanese market in 2023, Patek Philippe has now added a new version of its first world time watch with a date display to its regular production catalog.

The new Patek World Time 5330G-001 has a white gold case and a blue-gray opaline dial decorated with a “carbon” pattern at the center. The dial layout is classic Patek World Time but with the added benefit of a date ring around the periphery, used in conjunction with the red-tipped central glass hand to indicate the date in local time.

We see the jeans-like calfskin strap make an appearance here again, and I’m still not convinced this is the right choice for a Patek Philippe timepiece.

Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P

As part of its Watches & Wonders releases, Patek Philippe has introduced the new ref. 5236P-010 In-Line Perpetual Calendar with a platinum case and salmon dial. This is the latest version of the model Patek introduced in 2021, characterized by its distinctive patented calendar display whereby the day, date, and month sit alongside each other in one oversized window. That inaugural version was also fashioned from platinum but it housed a blue-to-black gradient dial.

This second version of the reference 5236P has what Patek calls an opaline rose-gilt dial, better known as a salmon dial. There are also charcoal-gray white gold faceted hour markers and hands, which adds to the vintage-inspired look of the timepiece. In addition to the signature calendar window with three indications, there’s also the moonphase display at 6 o’clock, the leap year indicator aperture on the right, and the day/night indicator on the left.

The ultra-thin Caliber 31-260 PS QL automatic movement, which includes an additional module with three patents as well as a platinum mini-rotor for improving winding power, is visible via the sapphire caseback.


Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG Alarm Travel Time

Patek Philippe has expanded its Alarm Travel Time offering with a new version in a subtle two-tone mix of mostly rose gold with a touch of white gold. Like the previous Alarm Travel Time watch in platinum (introduced in 2019), the Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG sports a 42.2mm case with four pushers jutting out from the sides. On this newest version, the tubes of the pushers are made from white gold while the rest of the case is crafted from rose gold.

As the name suggests, this is an alarm watch, and that programmable alarm chimes via a hammer striking on a classic gong. The gray sunburst and charcoal gray dial retains the signature Patek pilot watch design, featuring lumed Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hands, along with all the calendar, dual time zone, and alarm indicators peppered throughout.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G Annual Calendar

The annual calendar is a Patek Philippe invention, launched in 1996. Since then, the company has faithfully expanded its annual calendar collection with various sizes, metals, and dial executions. The Reference 5236 has been a mainstay of the lineup since 2016 when it was unveiled to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the collection.

Part of the Patek Philippe 2024 Watches and Wonders releases is a fresh version of the Ref. 5236 Annual Calendar in white gold with a blue-to-black dial and baguette diamond hour markers. The rest of the details remain the same, which is to say a restrained 38.5mm case, a pair of calendar windows at 12 o’clock for the day and month, a moonphase dial at 6 o’clock, and a date aperture below it.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738R Golden Ellipse

One of the Patek Philippe watches that’s having a major moment in the vintage market is the Golden Ellipse, coveted for its mid-century style, restrained proportions, dressy look, and simple two-handed dial. Its signature trait is the ellipse-shaped case, inspired by the Golden Ratio.

Patek Philippe is clearly riding that wave of popularity with the release of the pink Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/1R at Watches and Wonders 2024, complete with an old-school style chain bracelet made entirely in pink gold. The bracelet, which apparently took Patek over 15 years to develop and includes over 300 links, is made using a combination of modern machinery and traditional hand-finishing and hand-assembling. The bracelet benefits from a fold-over clasp with three adjustment positions for easier shortening/lengthening.

Contrasting with the rose gold bracelet and case is the stark ebony black dial, punctuated with slim rose gold hands and indexes.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R Perpetual Calendar with Retrograde Hand

After Patek Philippe discontinued the white gold ref. 5160 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Hand earlier in 2024, the brand has revived the model at Watches and Wonders 2024, this time in pink gold with a silvery opaline dial.

The intricate engraving on the case illustrates Patek’s “Rare Handicrafts” division, which champions traditional decorative techniques. The hand-engraved pattern, composed of volutes and foliage, draws inspiration from a pocket watch from the Patek Philippe Museum. The back of the “Officer’s style” case includes a hinged dust cover that can be opened for a view of the movement inside the watch.

The ref. 5160/500R-001 is a Patek Philippe Grand Complication, combining a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand on the ornate dial. The center of the dial includes an engraving that echoes that of the case, framed by blackened white gold applied Breguet numerals around the periphery.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Ref. 4910/1201R

2024 marks the 25th anniversary of the ultra-popular Twenty~4 Quartz ladies’ model, so Patek Philippe is celebrating with a new version of the watch.

The anniversary Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Ref. 4910/1201R features a rose gold rectangular case, set with two rows of 17 brilliant-cut diamonds on each side of the bezel. The vibrant purple lacquer dial is decorated with embossed concentric waves while the customary manchette (cuff) bracelet is made entirely in 18k rose gold.