Ten years as the style director of Homme de Lanvin have given Lucas Ossendrijver firsthand knowledge of the maison’s fashion identity. The summer 2017 collection, while infused with that Lanvin style, goes beyond into new dimensions. of “free style”. Handmade with the atelier’s craftsmanship, the collection is “a collage made up of different possibilities. It’s about freedom,’ said Ossendrijver, “I decided to go with room and creativity.”
Classical and industrial textures are spruced up with matte and glossy finishes. Coated materials merge with bright satin while parts of pieces grow to outsized proportions giving them a “futuristic” look. The color palette ranges from dark industrial tones to earthy browns and navy blue hues -not our favorite for a summer feel-, romantic pastels or a ‘Night Flowers’ screen print. Embroideries and large, horizontal stripes add effect.
Plaid trouser, oversize shirts, light coats, are rendered quirky by hand-stitched, applied or ironed-on seams embodying a recurring pattern. Patchwork of buckskin and knitwear on jackets, hand-dyed bindings put together in shaded colors making up sleeveless t-shirts, trouser knees and jacket elbows sewn with patches, ties sewn onto a jacket or fastened to the odd clasp around the wrist; the whole line has a special identity of its own.
Straps inspired by Lanvin handbags make well-timed appearances as they move with the body and transform into items of contemporary jewellery that speak of affection. Romantic symbols such as arrows, roses, tattooed babes or stars are in turn cross-stitched on a short-sleeved shirt or a pair of sneakers, applied onto patches such as military badges, or fashioned into jewels worn on the jacket wrist or collar like charms. The word ‘Error’ appears on the back of sneakers with contrasting sand-rubbed vulcanized soles.
It definitely takes a confident, fashion forward man to wear most of the Lanvin Summer 2017 runway looks, but there is a wide range of more “classical” looking trousers, polo shirts, vests and shirts that can be easily worn by those who prefer “safer” styles.